Bethlehem lit its towering Christmas tree in front of the historic Church of the Nativity this week, marking the city’s first major public celebration of the holiday since the Gaza war forced a two-year shutdown of festivities.
The return of Christmas events in the city where Christians believe Jesus was born comes after a recent ceasefire brought a measure of calm to the region — though tensions and hardship remain high.
Mayor Maher Canawati said Bethlehem’s decision to revive Christmas traditions was not taken lightly. Many families in the occupied West Bank have relatives in Gaza, including members of its small Christian community who continue to face severe hardship.
“Some may say it’s not appropriate and others say it is,” Canawati said. “But deep inside my heart, I felt this was the right thing to do because Christmas should never be stopped or canceled. This is the light of hope for us.”
He said the past two holiday seasons brought “silence, no Christmas, no jobs, no work,” as tourism — Bethlehem’s main source of income — collapsed during the conflict.
Manger Square was filled with families and a small number of foreign visitors taking photos in front of the newly lit tree decorated with red and gold ornaments. Bright displays and signs advertising Christmas markets and children’s events have reappeared across the city.
Local jewelry designer Nadya Hazboun said the renewed festivities were a morale boost. “We’re very happy to have the tree and to see foreigners in Bethlehem,” she said. “This is where it all started, so we can send a message of what Christmas should really be about.”
Nearby towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also plan to light their Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels that have stood mostly empty for two years are receiving new bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel and a handful of international pilgrims.
Angelica, a visitor from Russia on her second pilgrimage, said she hoped tourists would soon return in larger numbers. “It’s sad without many visitors,” she said. “The only good thing is you don’t have long lines now.”
Despite the revived celebrations, economic hardship remains widespread. Since the Hamas-led attacks on Israel in October 2023, tens of thousands of West Bank laborers have been barred from entering Israel for work. Bethlehem’s unemployment rate has surged as a result.
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At the same time, many public-sector workers have been receiving only partial salaries. The Palestinian Authority relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, but Israel has withheld funds — about $1.76 billion, according to the UN’s trade and development agency — citing payments the PA makes to Palestinian prisoners. The PA says it has modified its welfare system under international pressure.
These financial strains mean celebrations will be subdued for many families, said restaurant owner Alaa Salameh, whose decades-old establishment has seen its income collapse.
“We’re preparing for Christmas after one of our hardest periods,” he said. “Christians will try to celebrate but according to their situation. Many don’t even have money for a simple outing.”
Outside the Church of the Nativity — parts of which date to the 4th Century — tour guides stand largely idle, a stark contrast to the crowds that once filled the site. Guide Hamza worries that international news coverage continues to scare visitors away.
“This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life,” he said. “We hope people will come back like before — from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin America and everywhere. We start with the Christmas tree lighting, and we’ll wait.”
Inside the church’s grotto, where a silver star marks the traditional site of Jesus’s birth, a local woman lit a candle beside a visiting Indian tour group — a moment many hope will become common again as peace and tourism slowly return.
